Zgharta

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Zgharta, or Zghorta (زغرتا Arabic) is a large town in North Lebanon, with an estimated population of around 70,000.

Zgharta is about 150 metres above sea level and lies between the rivers of Jouit and Rashein. It is 23 kilometres from Ehden, 7 kilometres from the coastal city of Tripoli, 91 kilometres from the capital of Lebanon, Beirut and 82 kilometres from the nearest Syrian city, Tartous. Its history and people are closely associated with the village of Ehden. Most of the citizens of Zgharta have houses in Ehden, too. Where they spend the summer.

It is the seat of Zgharta District (Qadaa' Zgharta). Zgharta is closely related to the mountain town of Ehden, essentially sharing the same population. Each summer, most Zghartawis move to their summer dwelling in Ehden; this is reversed in winter when Ehden is practically deserted. Zghartawis speak the Lebanese dialect with a distinctive accent, the original Syriac accent applied on Arabic language. Syriac was taught in local schools till the mid 1900s.

Zgharta's political influence in Lebanon has been disproportionately larger than its size. It produced two Presidents of Lebanon: Suleiman Frangieh and Rene Moawad, and many prominent politicians: Hamid Frangieh, Suleiman Frangieh, Jr (former MP), Simon El Douaihy, Nayla Moawad (actual MP), Estephan El Douaihy (former MP), Tony Frangieh, Samir Frangieh (actual MP), Jawad Boulos (actual MP) and many others. Ehden also produced at least four patriarchs of the Maronite church (Estephan El Douaihy and Hanna (John) Makhlouf El Douaihy, and an Ottoman era nationalist leader (Youssef Karam) who led a rebellion against Turkish rule. Political power in Zgharta district is dominated by a few rival families from the town: the El Douaihy, Karam, Frangieh and Mouawad. Since the 1950's, the surrounding villages and towns played little political role in the district affairs due to a massive emigration. The population is predominantly Christian, with Maronites being a majority.

During the Lebanese Civil War, Zgharta (being the Christian stronghold of the north) was the frontline in the war for northern Lebanon as the Zgharta-based Marada Brigade militia successfully repulsed and responded with the attacks on Muslim and PLO militias from neighboring Tripoli.

Many historians^{[weasel words]} agree that the name Zgharta has been derived from the Aramaic term "zaghar" meaning fortress and in Syriac, the term "Zegharteh" means barricades.

Traditionally, agriculture was a large portion of the local economy, with olives grown for olive-oil around Zgharta and apple orchards around Ehden. Recently, the service and manufacturing sectors have seen significant growth.

[edit] Origin of the name

Various explanations have been given as to the meaning of Zgharta. The majority are of the opinion that it relates to meanings relating to fortresses, citadels, barricades and the like. One writer has suggested that it derived from the Aramaic word “zaghar” meaning the fortress or alternatively from the syriac word “zeghartay” meaning the barricades.

[edit] The Creation of Zgharta

There is some evidence that the area of Zgharta was inhabited in 200 BC and that in the 2 nd and 3 rd centuries there were fortifications. Its present day existence and its close association with the village of Ehden begin in the16 th century.

The story of that beginning is recorded in a manuscript in the Syriac language, which belonged to Romanos Afandi Yammine son of Father George Yammine and is now held by his grandson Youssef Boutros Romanos Yammine. It describes how people of Ehden had acquired “the farmland of Zgharta”:

On the eve of the 24th of January 1515, Al-Ghazali, Governor of Damascus along with Sannan Pasha, Minister of Sultan Salim, had reached Ehden travelling along the route of Damascus-Beqa Valley-Dahr al-Kadib-the cedars. They were transporting funds to Sultan Salim who was in Egypt. They were welcomed as guests by Sheik Iskandar son of Ehden’s leader, whilst other members of their travelling entourage were guests of the people of Ehden. Heavy snow falls and extremely freezing conditions lasted two full days prompting them to stay five days in Ehden where Sheikh Iskandar and Bishop of Ehden Kiriakos El Douaihy provided for their guests great hospitality, generosity and kindness. Responding to a request by their guests, the people of Ehden endeavoured to clear the heavy snow off the road as far as Hayrouna valley overlooking the coast, accompanying their guests to safety where they made their farewells to them with fitting accolades”.

In April 1516, Bishop El Douaihy and Sheik Iskandar received a letter from Al-Ghazali, saying on being told by his minister, Sannan Pasha of their and peoples hospitality and assistance, Sultan Salim asked that he rewarded them which he promised the Sultan he would. On his return to Damascus Al- Ghazali invited the people of Edhen to meet him in Tripoli. At the request of Sheikh Iskander he agreed to provide the people with a place to live away from the harsh winter conditions, which they faced in Ehden. Al- Ghazali readily agreed to this request. Accompanied by his officials Sheikh Iskandar and Bishop El Douaihy went to choose a suitable place in the Al-Zawiyi region. They chose a derelict farm, which contained a few demolished houses and a tower in the middle, situated between the rivers Joueit and Rashein. Al-Ghazali, on the return of his officials with the measurements of the site, promised to obtain a “Shahani firman” (decree) from Sultan Salim whereby ownership of the land would pass to the people of Ehden.

Some eight months later, 1517, the “Shahani firman” was granted but it was addressed to Sheikh Iskandar. Having collected the firman in Damascus and returning to Ehden the people there were aggrieved that the firman was addresses solely to Sheikh Iskandar, fearing that he and his relations could claim sole ownership. Bishop El Douaihy representing the people put this to Sheikh Iskandar and as a result he swore at the Mar Mama church that the given land known as “ Zgharta would be distributed equally between the people of Ehden”.

In the next century a visitor to Zgharta recorded “Zgharta is strictly a Maronite town. It represents a horrific nightmare for its enemy. Its youth is dressed in traditional clothing; white shirts decorated with yellow stitched embroidery, strongly tied “sherwal” pants along with long boots and topped by headband reflecting enormous heroism. Zgharta is a small village surrounded by an enclosure, and has a fortress beside the church of Virgin Mary. Zgharta used to be a drawn line between danger and worship, situated between Tripoli and the mountain. It would receive initial attacking strikes, then reply by returning those strikes back hitting the hearts of their enemy, and therefore, its people have been renowned and recognized as excellent fighters” 1602 Father Ghodar, Jesuit Priest.

Another later visitor in 1831 records that “From Tripoli I left for Zgharta, which is two hours away. Its land is full of olive, mulberry, vines, apricot and lemon trees”

The town of Zgharta was divided into five sectors in 1932: Saydeh Sharki (the area to the east side of Notre-Dame of Zgharta church), Saydeh Gherbi (west of the Church), Slayeb Shemali (northern side of the crossroads), Slayeb Janoubi (southern side of the crossroads) and Maaser . To be a citizen of Zgharta, you have to be registered in one of these five sectors.