Ruehl No.925
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
| Abercrombie & Fitch Co. brand | |
|---|---|
 |
|
| Type | Subsidiary |
| Establishment | September 24, 2004 |
| Headquarters | Abercrombie & Fitch Co. 6301 Fitch Path New Albany, Ohio 43054 |
| Key People | Michael S. Jeffries, Chairman & CEO |
| Apparel Type | Upscale Modern Business Casual and Trend Fashion Apparel |
| Initials | R925 / R / 925 / RNY |
| Logo | French Bulldog, Trubble |
| Theme | Upscale West Village Brownstone |
| Color scheme | Burgundy Red & Blue |
| Consumer Age | 22 through 35[1] |
| Areas Served |  United States |
| Store Locations | 23 (April 2008)[2] |
| Revenue | ▲ $3.2 million USD (average store in 2006)[3] |
| Website | www.ruehl.com |
RUEHL No.925, or simply RUEHL (spelled all-uppercase,[1] pronounced "rule"[4]), is an upscale American lifestyle brand from Abercrombie & Fitch Co. Inspired by Greenwich Village, RUEHL is designed to appeal to savvy post-collegiate modern-minded individuals aged 22 through 35.[1] The brand brings forth apparel, leather goods, and lifestyle accessories carrying its name and logo, and made available instore and ruehl.com. The photographer for the brand is renowned Bruce Weber.[5]
Contents |
[edit] History
[edit] Fictional background
A&F established a background to complete the feel of the RUEHL brand for its customers. According to the Company's publicity material[6], the story goes as so:
In the 1850s, the German Tito Ruehl family[6] immigrated to the West Village (a division of Greenwich Village). There, they moved into 921 Greenwich Street and opened up a leathergoods shop. Their first customer was a little "inquisitive" bulldog who walked in with a "steadfast demeanor" and a "confident attitude". The shop then on became popular, providing the Ruehls with a decent living. The Ruehl's son later moved next door into No.923 and took over the business. Being inspired by the fashion of James Dean and his work, he introduced RUEHL jeans. Afterwards, the grandson, moved into the present 925 Greenwich Street, bringing together all the previous elements of the business with his interests in the finer aspects of life; books, music, and art. [7] In 2002, Abercrombie & Fitch bought the rights to the family's name.[6]
The story is a fictional giveaway, nevertheless. There exists no numbers past the 800's on Greenwich Street. Furthermore, there are no records of there being an established Ruehl family in the Village either.[6] However the story fits into the present form of RNY, seeming ultimately believable. The store structure does consist of three walkways and the logo for the brand is a bulldog. The main name of the brand derives from the German last name, Ruhl.[8] Lastly, the full name, "RUEHL No.925", signifies that the "brownstone" located at "No.925" was owned by a family with the surname "Ruehl", hence "RUEHL No.925".
U.S. Bancorp Piper Jaffray states that "a history of quality goods [the Ruehl shop] mixed with the rich, cultural, and social history of the Ruehl family creates a vivid background to perpetuate the RUEHL brand."[3]
[edit] Development and opening
CEO of Abercrombie & Fitch, Michael Jeffries, has stated that RUEHL took years of planning, mainly for its stores' atmosphere and image. Initially, the Company (A&F) was determined to keep the fourth concept veiled.[9] Not even approached retail landlords were told about the future concept. However, John C. Shroder (COO of Westfield San Francisco Centre's U.S. operations) confessed that it was A&F's reputation which gave him the confidence to "sign up RUEHL sight-unseen." The then COO of Abercrombie & Fitch later asked him, "Will you help us prepare the space? But we can't tell you what it is."[9]
RUEHL No.925, the fourth brand from Abercrombie & Fitch, was introduced on September 24, 2004 with a store at Woodfield Mall, Garden State Plaza, and the International Plaza in Illinois, New Jersey, and Florida respectively. Structured as brownstones, RUEHL stores presented a new, "more sophisticated" lifestyle than other Abercrombie & Fitch brands. At the introduction of the Garden State store, Mike Jeffries said that RUEHL is "the fantasy of what it's like to graduate from college and go to New York and make it. It's the New York fantasy."[10] He also repeatedly referred to RUEHL as "the movie" because of its elaborate, flowing background.
Eight months after the opening, writer Alex Kuczynski published an article for The New York Times about her experience in the store at Garden State Plaza. She described the facade as "something provocative and different," and compared the store greeter to a "nightclub bouncer on the watch for good-looking customers." She wrote that although RUEHL's image is engaging, "try as it might, the name just doesn't sound cool.". Kuczynski also criticized the lighting techniques, saying that "people at that age[22-35] aspiring to the heights that RUEHL appears to promote would never deign to exert effort to find the right size, let alone spend 10 minutes squinting at a skirt to discern its color", and that the dimness merely aids shoplifting. Nevertheless, she praised RNY merchandise as prized "reasonable" and "worth the time and the money."[6]
[edit] Online shopping
Originally, Jeffries wanted to attract customers to the actual stores to experience RUEHL instore.[7] No e-commerce site was released. Addressed ruehl925.com, the first website simply gave store locations, email list subscriptions, and privacy policies (no online shopping). In early 2007, the address was simplified to ruehl.com and was upgraded as an Adobe Flash Player-enhanced webpage. The first online store, encompassing only limited quantities of handbags and fragrances, was launched October 25, 2007. By January 30, 2008, the online store was finally fully launched in the present form.[1]
Kurt Barnard, president of Barnards Retail Consulting Group stated that "the risk-taking behind RUEHL is not only a smart idea, it totally falls in line with the massive transformation of retail. Newness is needed. Abercrombie may have a hit upon a way to hold onto existing customers as they exit their teens."[9]
[edit] R925 Today
[edit] Branding
[edit] Trubble
Trubble is a fictitious French bulldog created by Abercrombie & Fitch Co. as the flagship logo and mascot for RUEHL No.925. The iconic character began appearing on polo shirts and other merchandise shortly after the brand's 2004 launch.
[edit] Story and characteristics
Abercrombie & Fitch created Trubble as one element of the whimsical, fictional history of its RUEHL No.925 clothing brand. According to company-produced literature, Trubble was a French bulldog living in the city of New York during the 1850s. One day, Trubble walked in the newly opened Ruehl Family Leather Shop, inadvertantly becoming the store's first-ever customer (to the Ruehl family's surprise and delight). Company literature further describes Trubble as an "inquisitive" little French bulldog with a "steadfast demeanor" and carrying a "confident attitude".[11]
The character was possibly inspired by an actual pet owned by Michael S. Jeffries (Chairman and Chief Executive Officer of the Company).[citation needed]
[edit] Development and use
Following the 2004 launch of RUEHL, the brand began to experiment with different logos (an "R", "R925", and "RUEHL") before settling on the fictitious French bulldog — a sort of counterpart to the Abercrombie moose and flying Hollister Co. seagull. Although rumors have circulated that the company may change its logo (possibly to a fox),[citation needed] Trubble remains the logo for the brand as of May 2008.
Trubble is embroidered, icon-style, onto the breasts of RUEHL polos and silkscreened onto t-shirts.
[edit] Marketing
Marketing campaign images have also shown the evolvement, first being sepia toned, then green in tint, and finally blue in tint. The brand markets with the catch phrases, "Visit us in the Village." The main marketing logo "RUEHL No.925: Greenwich Street New York" has been revised and replaced with "RUEHL No.925: Greenwich St, New York, NY", the fictitious address of the stores. In regards to selling merchandise, Jeffries even noted the continued importance of sex in advertisement (a force behind the long-term success of Abercrombie & Fitch Co. brands).
[edit] Apparel and goods
| “ | The intricate details that go into the high-quality clothing, fine leather goods, and lifestyle accessories give the RUEHL customer their own unique, downtown sense of style. - A&F Careers | ” |
R925 goods are more sophisticated than of what is expected at A&F,[6] and, according to Jeffries, is "100% casual."[10] Price points at RUEHL are the highest form A&F to ensure an upscale image. Original prices were roughly 30% higher than at Abercrombie & Fitch (e.g. destroyed blue jeans $148.00 USD and polos at $68.00 USD[6]). Many consumers deemed this as too high for young professionals.[9] In effort to retain consumer basis, prices have been declined to simply 10-15% higher than the A&F brand. In return, A&F jeans prices were raised to make a small $10 USD difference between both brands. Now nicknamed "A&F + $10" by original customers, there lingers a feel that the brand has been degraded from its high-end image (by the drop in prices). Criticisms include, but are not limited to, the accusation that RUEHL is essentially the same low-quality, sweat-shop manufactured, merchandise available for purchase at Hollister Co. and Abercrombie Kids.
Merchandise at RUEHL has been described as "edgier versions of Polo Ralph Lauren and J. Crew".[9]RNY is the first from A&F Co. to produce a genuine leather goods line for both men and women. Because of low purchasing rates, however, the men's leather goods were discontinued (e.g. wallets and messenger bags). The rest of the collection encompasses tops, bottoms, swim wear, accessories, and underwear (men's only).[5] Lace-and-velvet trimmed Lingerie and sleepwear were also previously offered to women (discontinued because of the Gilly Hicks brand).[6][10] Materials used for RUEHL apparel are much more higher-grade (using heavier denim, cashmere for sweaters, and embossed leather) than in other A&F brands.[9] Overall, Jeffries wants RUEHL to be positioned as a "jeans expert", with RNY jeans dominating the assortment of apparel.[10]
[edit] The RUEHL Book
| Abercrombie & Fitch Co. publication | |
|---|---|
| The RUEHL Book | |
| Type | Photobook |
| First Publication | 2007 |
| Years Active | N/A |
| Contents | RNY Photography by Bruce Weber |
Recently, RNY has begun to release a photobook publication series titled "The RUEHL Book". The series is reminiscent to A&F Quarterly, only it contains photopgraphy by Bruce Weber (original photographer of the Quarterly). RUEHL by Bruce Weber: The Improper Bohemians, the 4th volume in the series, has been released.THE RUEHL Book costs around $100.
[edit] Stores
Unlike its sister stores, RNY offers an incontrovertibly complete unique experience. Because of its upscale modern originality, instore elements are brought together to further establish the image of the brand: transforming the store into an "upscale West Village brownstone." Such elements include soft modern lounge/Downtempo music paired with displayed modern art, incorporated dim lighting (which projects an upscale image in the retail world[6]), and the lingering opulent scent of Signature. In A&F's words, "The classic décor and opulent ambience create a luxurious lifestyle inside this romantically lit West Village brownstone."[12]
Most stores are located in upscale malls across the country, making itself more available to potential high-income shoppers rather than improbable moderate shoppers. US potential for RUEHL stores is predicted to be 250, the low number insuring more exclusivity in contrast to other A&F brands.[3]
[edit] Design
A typical RUEHL No.925 is structured as three, two-floored brownstones.[7] Artificial windows contain flower boxes, and a black awning on the 3rd facade reads "RUEHL." Surrounding the facades are iron fences, and more flower boxes containing fake shrubs and foliage. Resembling as a home off of Greenwich Street, R925 has incorporated concrete walkways outside its store, leading to the three entrances. Inside, the stores are walled off into more than ten rooms. Entering the main entrance, there is a large corridor, the main hallway separating the men’s and women’s departments. At the very end of the hallway, there is a divian surrounded with books and modern art (bolted to the floors for security purposes[7]). Further art and marketing photography are displayed about. Merchandise is displayed on actual bookshelves (containing copies of actual antique books for sale such as by authors Jackson Pollock and Willem de Kooning[6]) and on tables.[7] The overall lighting is dim, with merchandise highlighted with spot lighting and lamps. The cashwrap is located in the "garage" in the back corner of the store, designed to have brick walls, dim/flickering lighting, and windows to represent the outside using intelligent lighting techniques. CDs are available for purchase upon request and some stores are known to have a burning fireplace.[7]
The two-floor store prototype measures at 9,500ft2.[3] Due to its structural form and size, locations capable of housing the prototype are hard to acquire.[3] In early 2007, to accommodate expansion, a new store prototype was developed measuring at 7,200ft2. This new prototype encompasses one sales level only, reducing construction costs and increasing opportunities to secure prime real estate locations.[3]
RUEHL store policy prohibits public photography of the store's exterior facade. At least one RUEHL store, The Domain (Austin, Texas), is known to employ staff to stand at the door to enforce inhibit photographers from gaining entrance. Such enforcement is objectionable because photography of a building in or visible from a public place does not constitute copyright infringement under United States copyright law:
The copyright in an architectural work that has been constructed does not include the right to prevent the making, distributing, or public display of pictures, paintings, photographs, or other pictorial representations of the work, if the building in which the work is embodied is located in or ordinarily visible from a public place. 17 U.S.C. § 120(a).[1]
[edit] Customer reaction
Kevin Ramstack, division manager of the Garden State Plaza store, said that new customers become overwhelmed over the number of rooms, "At first, they're shocked."[9] It is because of this (and many other factors) that many customers do not even recognize RUEHL as an Abercrombie & Fitch brand. The lack of typical mall windows also mislead shoppers' view of the brand.[13]A 50-year-old-man (interviewed by the New York Times) who walked into a RNY brownstone found himself in the wrong place among "skimply dressed teenagers and stacks of tee-shirts that read 'Friday is casual sex day' ."[13] He later confessed that the problem was "you really had to guess what it was until you got in." Quite on the contrary, a 17-year-old and her friend stated that they enjoyed the experience of the brand and that "instead of being in the middle of New Jersey, we are on a street in New York, and that is were we want to be anyway -- living in New York City."[13]
Many retail executives find themselves into a disagreement in the with the idea of no mall windows.[13] Some agree that stores similar to RUEHL (like Martin + Osa) with original and provocative storefronts attract curiosity to themselves against other mall merchants, and, thus, aid themselves economically. However, others contradict by stating that brands with storefronts as such are merely "shooting themselves in the foot when it comes to new customers who are so critical to a brand's success."[13] However, with concern to RUEHL, Andrew McQuilkin (vice president of design at FRCH Design Worldwide) settles that "they [storefronts] are sending a message early in the conversation [between consumer and store] that says you belong or you don't belong...The 17-year-old who wants to live in New York belongs. The 50-year-old suburban dad does not."[13]
[edit] Brand performance
The average RNY store generated sales of over ▲ $3.2 million USD in 2006.[3] In comparison to Hollister's popularity and revenue by 2004 (four years after its opening), revenue from RUEHL by 2008 has not been satisfying. Giving R925 more of a resemblance to the A&F style (noticeable on Hollister), but maintaining a small unique flare, is being practiced to increase figures (by attracting same-company customers). Potted palm trees (found in A&F stores) have been added instore. The "RUEHL No.925" name is stamped and embroidered more noticeably. The lower price points will also make it easier for same-company customers to enter the RUEHL market, and the new store prototype will gain faster expansion than before. Even production rollouts have been made similar to its sister brands. A&F hopes that RUEHL will eventually grow as a strong, popular, post-collegiate brand: similar to A&F with collegiates and Hollister with high-schoolers.
[edit] Current stores
As of now RUEHL operates twenty-three mall stores and one accessories store. The mall stores take up the store prototypes set up by corporate. The 600ft2[14] accessories store is different, however, in that it only sells the handcrafted leather merchandise.[14] It is located in West Village, Greenwich Village, New York City, New York at 370 Bleecker Street (on Bleecker between Charles and Perry).[1]
Mall stores follow in order of state.[1]
[edit] Future expansion
Mall stores follow in order of state
- Independence, Missouri / Independence Center
- Bloomington, Minnesota / Mall of America
- Buffalo, New York / Walden Galleria
- Lake Grove, New York / Smith Haven Mall
- Arcadia, California / The Promenade at Westfield Santa Anita
- Santa Clara, California / Westfield Valley Fair
[edit] References
- ^ a b c d e f RUEHL announces the launch of e-commerce website.. Abercrombie & Fitch Co.. Retrieved on 2007-11-22.
- ^ http://library.corporate-ir.net/library/61/617/61701/items/282723/Q108_Rev_Comp_history.pdf
- ^ a b c d e f g RUEHL: Improving four-wall performance. Abercrombie & Fitch Co.. Retrieved on 2007-01-26.
- ^ "Job Opportunities", video of associate Kristy. Abercrombie & Fitch Co.. Retrieved on 2008-01-24.
- ^ a b ruehl.com - the official website
- ^ a b c d e f g h i j A Dark, Secuded Place. The New York Times. Retrieved on 2008-02-06.
- ^ a b c d e f History of RUEHL and reason behind its image, as told by an associate (includes interior images). "Topic Style" user name: "Trubble". Retrieved on 2007-11-22.
- ^ Ruehl Name Meaning and Origin - Ancestry.com
- ^ a b c d e f g Abercrombie's Ruehl No.925 makes customers feel at home. ICSC. Retrieved on 2008-03-15.
- ^ a b c d RUEHL: A&F's Hip New Retail Concept. Retrieved on 2008-03-15.
- ^ RUEHL description written by RUEHL store associate: includes pictures of the store taken by the associate before opening doors for the day. anonymous RUEHL associate. Retrieved on 2007-10-12.
- ^ A&F Careers / Brands / RUEHL 925
- ^ a b c d e f It's hard to Window Shop Without the Windows. The New York Times. Retrieved on 2008-03-15.
- ^ a b RUEHL Roots in Greenwich Village. (Abercrombie & Fitch concept). Daily News Record. Retrieved on 2008-03-15.
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