Bodysurfing

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Bodysurfing in La Jolla California

Bodysurfing is the art and sport of riding a wave without the assistance of any buoyant device such as a surfboard or bodyboard. Bodysurfers typically equip themselves only with a pair of specialized swimfins that stay on during turbulent conditions and optimize propulsion. Some practitioners also carry or wear a small planing surface on the hand to aid with positioning on the wave face. These include Hand Paddles, Hand Guns, Wave Blades, Redwings and others used to gain extra speed across the face of the wave.

One of the most famous bodysurfing spots in the world is located in Newport Beach California,and is known as The Wedge. Wave faces there can reach upwards of 30ft and more on big southern hemisphere and hurricane generated swells during the spring, summer, and fall. Known mainly for high performance bodysurfing and intense jaw dropping rides and wipeouts, these waves are created by swells hitting the jetty and "rebounding" into the oncoming wave creating the "wedge-effect", resulting in peaks that can "jack up" to incredible sizes and shapes. When it is "on", The Wedge is for experienced riders only. The Wedge is to bodysurfing what the Pipeline is to surfing: the best bodysurfers prove themselves at The Wedge, as do the best stand-up surfers at Pipeline.

Bodysurfers tend to have a minimalist attitude toward wave riding and consider their sport to be more pure than other forms of riding waves. Because velocity is slower without a board (due to increased drag and lessened plaining ability), bodysurfers tend to focus on barrel riding. As such bodysurfers tend to congregate on slower waves, or shorebreak, where close out barrels are the flavor of the day. Getting "tubed" is generally considered the grail of surfing, which may help explain the superior attitude bodysurfers have towards their sport. As further evidence, some surfers in Hawaii have stated they use bodysurfing as conditioning for big wave riding.

To get on the wave, bodysurfers must pick a direction, paddle hard, put down their arm, and roll onto their back. Other tricks or variations include underwater takeoffs, spins, barrel rolls and the ever popular getting pounded.

Annually, the Pipeline Bodysurfing Classic competition runs at the world famous Banzai Pipeline. This event is considered to be a world class pro/am competition and yet is also considered one of the truly unique underground surf contests around. From the bodysurfing population et al, the event is considered the premiere event internationally. It's one of the only times bodysurfers have access to the cream of the Pipeline's waves.

[edit] References

"Secrets of a Kahuna Bodysurfer:A Spiritual Adventure Guide" by Lani E Lowel (1999/2006)
The Art of Bodysurfing by Robert Gardner (1972)
Bodysurf by Hugo Verlomme and Laurent Masurel (2002)
The Art of Wave Riding by Ron Drummond (1931)